We Australians rightly pride ourselves on our new generation of winemakers identifying old plantings of this once-overlooked red variety, and turning the grapes into high-quality – and high-priced – wines. But we’re far from alone.

Over the past decade or two, the same revolution has been sweeping through other grenache-growing regions around the globe, from Spain to South Africa to California. The revolution has even reached southern France, ground zero for grenache, where producers in humble appellations are now making highly sought-after, cutting-edge wine that can rival the best from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the famous region considered the benchmark for the variety.