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Good luck having a bad time at Tamura. This mini mash-up of Tokyo and Melbourne bar cultures is cosy and convivial. One wall is crammed with bottles of sake, whisky and shochu, while plywood shelves throughout the room hold oddball Japanese knick-knacks, records and bonsai.

Pull up a stool at the chest-high, U-shaped bar, where staff as well-versed in sake- selecting as they are vinyl-spinning dart back and forth, delivering plates of face-puckering house pickles, two-bite chicken katsu sandos and prawn balls rolled in buckwheat.

Silky leaves of raw kingfish shimmer with kombu and sweet plum, and chicken-heart yakitori or pork belly skewers pair impossibly well with a frosty on-tap rice XPA. Finish with a petite scoop of yuzu ice-cream.