Almost 25 years on, the 'new' Rockpool is a glorious thing. Eased behind the grand sandstone of the heritage Burns Philp facade, it's a dramatic compile of deep charcoal-to-black tones, cast-iron columns disappearing into fine pressed-metal ceilings and cunning spot-lighting that picks your table out from the shadows. Neil Perry's mastery of Asian flavours twists and turns in head chef Phil Wood's more than able hands. A string of set-menu snacks is excitingly memorable – prawn tempura that's all funky crunch, deboned chicken wing dripping with konbu butter, and sticky miso oxtail with coconut. Or choose your own from lush entree/mains such as congee with Moreton Bay bug, almond tofu, star-anise peanuts and youtiao (doughnut sticks) or sweet-hot-spiced quail in a deep-toned, pour-on broth. It's hard to pick your pace in the whirl of lavish flavours, textures and tableside theatrics so a pandan, jasmine and coconut vacherin proves a delicately restrained conclusion.

And... Service, including wine assistance, is exemplary.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe The finest in fine Australian dining.
Best bit Those superb, indulgent, surprising snacks.
Worst bit Choosing the rest of your menu.