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From the ice-cold mini martinis to the gleaming copper pans bearing smoky, coal-grilled steaks and wood-fired roast chickens, Sydney Common is anything but basic.

While the elegant first-floor dining room with sweeping views of Hyde Park is serene enough for business or date nights, there’s a quiet revolution happening in the contemporary open kitchen.

Chef Jamie Robertson, with some inspiration from former Sepia star Martin Benn, sends out highly seasonal, highly refined plates such as guanciale with white nectarines and pink peppercorn oil in summer, and the cutest hand-formed agnolotti of smoked pumpkin in winter.

Hot-smoked beef tongue sizzles from the robata coals; and new favourite honey-roasted duck is jumping with Sichuan pepper and rhubarb.

Desserts are equally seasonal – passionfruit custard with shortbread, say – putting paid to the cliche that hotel dining rooms are set in stone.