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There have been changes afoot at Printhie Dining after a chef change, with pinch-hitter Justin North drafted in to oversee a new, sustainability-focused menu, with Canadian chef Chris Lees formulating dishes and banging pans day to-day.

Lees and his team are executing the new four-course degustation with skill, beginning with the crunch of a pastry cone filled with cured rainbow trout, cucumber and ponzu. It’s an instant crowd-pleaser.

Bronzed crackle-skinned duck with celeriac, carrot and pepperberry jus pairs neatly with the winery’s single vineyard pinot noir, not to mention the view of the Towac Valley unfurling beyond floor-to-ceiling windows.

Throw in accommodating service, well-spaced tables and a tight wine list of locals and imports, and you have what remains Orange’s best winery dining experience.