The European deserves a spot high on every local’s list of must-visit Melbourne institutions for out-of-towners, but time has not stood still here. The dark, woody room continues to draw a powerful and prestigious clientele, the menu is a roll-call of classics with a fresh nod to modern palates. Steak tartare is plated prettily with charred onion, caperberries and an oozing golden yolk; a seafood soup is at first a display of its components – flathead, prawns, pipis, scallops, a saffron aioli – then a deeply flavoured bisque poured tableside for flourish. Even the use of blueberries in a seasonally adaptive bombe Alaska is a lively touch. A slab of snowy-fleshed steamed barramundi with crab-stuffed zucchini flowers continues the theme. There’s excellent fresh pasta too, maybe the sweet rabbit agnolotti with tarragon, asparagus and fresh ricotta, and a menu section dedicated to nose-to-tail eating, from the beast’s marrow to chateaubriand. Service is fast-paced, knowledgeable and with easy smiles; it’s a highlight. The European is on song. 

And … Siglo, one of the city’s best cocktail bars, is on the roof.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Back streets of Paris.
Best bit The bistro classics.
Worst bit Not all tables are created equal.