Perhaps one of Doncaster's most ambitious restaurants, Tender Trap is a sleek, grey-rendered, sometimes noisy space serving elegant, generously proportioned food. In terms of price and fine-dining smarts, it pits itself against top places closer to town. Service is professional, though not necessarily smiley, and while the dishes look beautiful, some can lack depth of flavour, as in a risotto of heirloom carrots and globe artichokes with a race-worthy fascinator of fine-sliced radish and carrot and charred spring onions. Expertly cooked grass-fed Angus rib-eye is treated reverentially, centre stage on a massive white platter with a knob of butter - whipped with fermented black garlic and parsley - and a minimalist steel cup of fat chips beside. Complex, multi-faceted desserts are bold, such as thin rectangles of brownie-like cake interspersed with golden shards of honeycomb and pistachio-green blobs of anglaise. Looks too good to eat, tastes too good not to.