Guy Grossi came to the Florentino in 1999, bringing with him proud family traditions of fine food and service. Now his personal brand - enhanced by his connection to an institution that's been part of Melbourne fine-dining since before the Depression - has spread to other restaurants, through books and television. Perhaps as a result, Florentino remains a benchmark of the ancient art of service, but is drifting as a benchmark of the total food experience. The extensive menu lists peerless ingredients, but the desire to mix timeless Italian classics with modern cooking flourishes - dusts, foams and such - does not always deliver the results expected with $39 entrees, and $56 mains. Tuna carpaccio with apple and fennel jelly is vivid and beautiful, but lobster tortellini may be more chewy than al dente. Fremantle octopus was too salty, while Glenloth pigeon came roasted perfectly, supported by ravioli filled with tender leg. The Mural room is as beautiful as ever - Melbourne will likely always have a soft spot for this cultured fine-diner.