Bok Choy Brighton is a reliable destination for a good Cantonese fix. Set on an unassuming suburban strip, this elegant but ageing room, in tones of gold and deep purple, is decorated with Buddha paintings and Chinese opera costumes in box frames. While service can sometimes drift, the classic food is consistently pleasing and generous. 'Chicken roll', a crisp fried tofu skin crammed with succulent minced chicken and water chestnut, is accompanied by a punchy sweet chilli sauce. A set of four yum cha dim sum is good, with the porky picks (especially siu mai) the stars. Wasabi prawns - fat, battered beauties - are understandably popular, the piquant wasabi mayonnaise providing just the right, very slight, nostril-flaring hit, while two eye fillet steaks sit memorably tender in a black pepper sauce. If desserts such as banana fritter seem predictable, perhaps opt to increase your vegetable intake - mixed vegetable and tofu is textbook.