Aja's menu jumps around Asia like a cashed-up package tourist, and touches down in each country for about as long. There might be soft-shell crab rice-paper rolls with Thai basil and avocado; and Shanghai pork dumplings, with a flavoursome and firm filling, rather than the boiling soup usually within. Prawns in soft strands of poached eggwhite are a delicate offering from China. Mains might include sizzling Korean beef (perhaps a little sweeter than in Seoul) with house-made kimchi. 'No-nonsense' stir-fried noodles are exactly as named; simple, silky and with fresh snowpeas, onion, red and green capsicum and beansprouts. To counter generous seasoning, follow the advice given to any traveller in Asia, and drink plenty of bottled water. Desserts like 'hazelnut delight' - deep-fried glutinous sweet-potato dumplings with a crushed hazelnut and coconut filling - may be too heavy for some, particularly those who ordered generously on the savouries. The lacquered sheen of the sleek, soft-lit room has a unifying effect, which helps make Aja a pleasant stopover.