Totti’s Lorne

Oceanfront juggernaut keeps on pumping.

November 18, 2024

1 / 9Crumbed King George whiting,among other dishes.Ashley Ludkin

2 / 9Outside Totti’s Lorne outpost.Eddie Jim

3 / 9Totti’s signature wood-fired bread.Eddie Jim

6 / 9Reginette pasta alla vodka with prawns.Eddie Jim

7 / 9Campanelle pasta with milk-braised pork and chilli.Eddie Jim

9 / 9Chocolate and hazelnut tart.Eddie Jim

15/20

Italian$$

Disclaimer

There is an ongoing investigation by The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age and Good Food detailing allegations of sexual harassment, exploitation of female staff and drug use at Merivale venues. Merivale, the owner of this restaurant, has begun an internal investigation into the claims and says it is committed to “an inclusive, diverse and respectful workplace environment for our staff, as well as for our customers”. SafeWork NSW is also investigating the company.

Stroll around Lorne and you might pass people posing the question: “Totti’s again tonight?” And there they are, filling the bay-facing windows and sinking into booths among tiles, terrazzo, urns and lamps (so many lamps).

Friday’s order might have been a blood orange and rhubarb spritz, wood-fired bread and the “big four” of burrata, prosciutto, anchovies and excellent house-made ’nduja. Tonight it might be a chinotto negroni and that famed bread again, paired with marjoram-flecked tomatoes or cucumbers on whipped curd.

Formulaic? Sure. But never stale. Specials of bouncy calamari fritti or snapper from the wood oven keep things fresh, as does the pasta, even if milk-braised pork campanelle is non negotiable. Then you spy the day’s tarts lining the counter. Totti’s again tonight?