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Atlas Dining

Globe-hopping chef cooking over fire.

Baby rainbow trout with tortas fritas.
1 / 7Baby rainbow trout with tortas fritas.supplied
The menu changes cuisine every four months.
2 / 7The menu changes cuisine every four months.Bonnie Savage
Pho meets tartare.
3 / 7Pho meets tartare.Supplied
Modern Vietnamese.
4 / 7Modern Vietnamese.Supplied
Squid, spring onion and sweet potato noodles.
5 / 7Squid, spring onion and sweet potato noodles.Bonnie Savage
The dining room at Atlas.
6 / 7The dining room at Atlas.Kaitlyn Wilton
Contemporary dining.
7 / 7Contemporary dining.Supplied

Good Food hat15/20

Contemporary$$

It’s an odd premise: chef eats world, then shares his favourite holiday snackshots. The thematic touches are thankfully light. Passport-style menus meet an elegant room; a golden compass hangs overhead.

Take a seat and witness chef Charlie Carrington deliver interpretations of national treasures that run from faithful to off-piste. A recent voyage to Great Britain saw Earl Grey cocktails and Bishops Finger ales bolster the wine list of interesting, ethical producers.

Scotch eggs starred on the snack front. Cullen skink, the Scottish soup, ousted the traditional haddock for barramundi. Wood-roasted cauliflower was enveloped in pungent Shropshire blue. And the slow-cooked lamb and Yorkshire pud of a proper pub roast were blasphemously bettered by smoked eel gravy.

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Past hits have included Vietnamese pho-flavoured beef tartare, and unorthodox Mexican mole. The world according to Carrington is a delightfully creative and delicious place.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/link/follow-20170101-p5fkus