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The power dinner is back. Melbourne’s business set talk mergers and acquisitions over wood-fired steak, burgundy and designer fries in a room geared to the mood-lit sensibilities of the one-per-centers. The conjoined sibling to swank Society has a similar glam style but it’s tempered by warmer service and a more approachable menu built around cornerstone dishes from Europe.

Chubby bracelets of calamarata pasta dazzle with sweet spanner crab and umami-rich lobster oil. It’s comfort luxed to the max. Piquant beef tartare starts textbook before surprising with the light crunch of raw enoki mushroom.

Even bolder, velvety scallops with the fire of Spanish cured sausage sobrasada make a winning statement. Lillian is hardly the tradie’s entrance to the fancy 80 Collins precinct, but you can expect more bustle, less hush. Seal the deal over caramelised blood plum tarte tatin.