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Produce-driven dishes for sharing. Service finesse without fussiness. A refined industrial fitout with a long kitchen bar for solo dining. So far, so good – so what? This is what: Andrew McConnell’s groundbreaking all-day diner not only set the template for much of what the city now takes for granted, it still nails the brief.

You might perch at that buzzing marble bar for bresaola draped over kohlrabi with lemon mayo; or nestle in a banquette, swiping burnished Jerusalem artichoke and tender celeriac through porcini-rich mushroom puree. Colleagues toast at a big round table, sharing a dish of duck with sweet golden beets.

Whatever the day, count on a genuinely seasonal menu, precisely executed. Adept drinks service and a splash of panache – a bottle of rum to pour as you please over what may be this town’s springiest baba – complete a timeless package.