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When your ears pop in the lift, it’s a sign: you’ve entered another realm, one so far above the miniaturised city below that it’s hard to orient yourself by landmarks. Lean into the spectacular surroundings up here instead.

Columns are encased in salvaged mother-of-pearl, and orblike lights reflected in wraparound windows appear as moons in the night sky. Ceremonious staff step diners through a menu that champions Victorian produce and flashy technique.

Wildly tender octopus skewers are coated in squid ink romesco, and Murray cod is infused with the subtle pep of its wasabi leaf cloak. Wagyu’s fatty inner lattice is met by bright bush tomato bearnaise, and blood plum is a tart foil for arborio rice cream.

Steer away from saccharine cocktails in favour of the superb wine list, and be sure to check out the loos: the panoramic views extend there, too.