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Michelin-starred chef Bee Satongun and her chef-husband Jason Bailey have set up a true landmark amid Mittagong’s sandstone, greenery and homewares stores. The glass-fronted space, with light-coloured woods and well-spaced tables, is all style and a pre-meal Bangkok Mule is worth it for the glamorous glass alone.

The food? All layers. Scallops come with fresh fleshy coconut, lychee, sparkling herbs, nuts and a chilli pinch. The pomelo salad seems to be all spanner crab, but sits on a funky spice paste with greens and herbs. And a blistered banana chilli and sweet-juiced pineapple in a rich, complex sauce with lots of crunchy bits takes chicken curry to a new place.

Wine is given fair attention, and for sweets, coconut noodles swim in coconut cream over more textural surprises. Put Paste at the top of your Southern Highlands to-dos.