Small things count at Longshore. A crudo of tiny sweet coral prawns with plum vinegar and rice crisps that together taste like DIY prawn crackers from a Chinese takeaway. A mini abalone shell, filled with savoury custard and slivers of abalone meat and given punch with wasabi leaf.

You could snack all night here (literally: there’s a 10-course snack menu), but those touches that former Hartsyard chef Jarrod Walsh brings to the openers extend right through. Staff know the menu back to front, a refreshing, white-led wine list has flexibility and fun built in, and larger plates hit as hard as the openers: see the saucy barbecued kingfish head with avruga and chives, or the coiled octopus tentacles splashed with ink and green sauce.

The room (once home to Automata) might want for atmosphere, but this is one of Sydney’s most exciting seafood restaurants hiding in plain sight – get in before word gets out.