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The butter-yellow interior and sweet, smoky scent of frankincense are key indicators you’ve found longstanding East African restaurant Ras Dashen.

Dishes arrive in bowls atop layers of wholemeal and ivory injera bread, which is destined to be torn and scooped through wats (spicy stews) and tibs (pan-fried dishes), imparting a nutty, tart edge.

Doro wat, the country’s national dish, is top of the pecking order. Bone-in chicken is gently stewed to fork-tender and joined by sweet onions and warming spice in a rust-coloured gravy. Braised fava beans are heavy with cumin.

Gomen, the traditional Ethiopian dish of chilli-spiked collard greens, is restorative in every sense. Don’t leave without ordering buna, the claypot coffee service, delivered by some of the warmest waitstaff around.