Inside a vast shopping complex hide big, bold subcontinental flavours. Punjabi by Nature runs an impressive takeaway operation, and while its dining room may not be Melbourne’s busiest, it’s certainly one of the most aggressively lit.

Long communal tables cater to groups traversing the laundry list of paratha, the layered breads pulled piping hot from the tandoor. Amritsari kulcha is an elite example. Filled with spiced potato and grated paneer, shiny with melted ghee and topped with fenugreek, its edges overhang the serving tray.

Chicken seekh kebabs are scorched on the charcoal grill then soothed by a tart, creamy dressing. The Indo-Chinese staple known as 65 sees many iterations here but paneer gets top billing. The craggly nuggets are battered and fried, then wok-tossed with peppers and vibrant chilli sauce. Popping to the shops never tasted so good.