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If good chefs know when to remove one thing from a dish, then Paringa Estate’s new kitchen leader, Nick McGonigal, is on the right path. His CV – which includes Society, Bentley and London’s Ledbury – comes through in plates such as grilled Murray cod laid over XO sauce, slippery mushrooms and earthy borlotti beans.

Beef and onion, a rock-solid coupling, gets new spark in the form of deep pink Sher wagyu rostbiff with sweet onion puree and black garlic crumb. Trifle is pure nana chic: layers of blood orange jelly, oat panna cotta and coconut crumb sitting pretty in a tall cut-glass bowl.

Starched linen and prim service remind you that this is still winery dining, as does the view through picture windows of vine draped hills and waddling geese. With cooking like this, Paringa is one to watch.