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Have you even been to MoVida if you didn’t order the anchoa? The anchovy topped crouton with smoked tomato sorbet hasn’t waned in pulling power since 2003, and the same can be said for Melbourne’s OG laneway tapas bar.

It still honours its own classics, such as cold-smoked kingfish with pine nut gazpacho that arrives in a dramatic plume of smoke. But there’s also a canny eye on the new. Sweet-fleshed raw prawns in a slick of crustacean oil are produce-driven perfection, and the paprika punch of charry sobrasada sausage meets its soulmate in mellow drizzles of honey.

A thorough list of Spanish wines and sherry is primed to take you through to rustic raciones, where a juicy dry-aged pork chop with bread stuffing proves as timeless as the terracotta tiled, straight from-Barcelona room.