There can’t have been too many love letters penned to ’70s Hong Kong from present-day Camberwell, and probably none this tasty. Chef Jack Tsai came up under ace chef Victor Liong at Lee Ho Fook, and that influence presents immediately and gladly at this cheery split-level diner.

Pumpkin spring onion pancakes join black vinegar and stracciatella in a rich arrangement of salt, fat and acid. Mapo vegetables are more creamy neo-ratatouille in practice (inherently likeable, in any case) while master stock-poached chicken, capped with addictive fried skin, is more reminiscent of its Hainanese muse despite coming in a touch firm.

Craggy buns are served with Vegemite and char siu butter. Use it like a deeply savoury mortar to afix the accompanying pork floss to the hot, sweet bread. It’s endearingly theatrical, as food this whimsical ought to be.