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A toy-sized taco shell cradles cubes of raw tuna. A dark-hued profiterole hides truffled Main Ridge goat’s cheese. Part of a pretty and playful quartet of snacks, these tiny but mighty bites set you up for how Moke rolls.

Classic European technique and on-trend Aussie ingredients meld beautifully across six courses. Poached orange roughy joins squid shaved into a tagliatelle-like tangle, the seafood surrounded by a pool of exquisite beurre blanc speckled with finger lime. Chewy-crunchy mandarin pavlova is lifted by a cinnamon-scented Chantilly cream.

A cottage-like backdrop of rustic timber, large colonial-style windows and bluestone fireplace is matched by genuinely warm service. It’s a sleight of hand that only heightens the impact of the kitchen’s deft combinations. The menu and wine list champion local heroes. Moke does the same for relaxed fine dining.