When your dining neighbour is a Penang local who seeks out Lulu’s because they reckon it’s got the most authentic char kwai teow in town, you know you’ll eat well.

A study in simplicity with deceptive depths, Lulu’s does just three kinds of noodle dish – CKT, Hokkien and noodles in soup. After ordering, snake-slither between tables to your stool and listen to the soundtrack of clattering woks as you await the signature dish.

Bespoke rice noodles hiding curls of sweet lap cheong and crunchy nubs of pork lard huff with aromatic wok hei: breath of the wok. Hokkien noodles are more toothsome yet studded with just as many gems.

Before draining a bowl of soupy white curry mee, fiery and luscious with prawns, squid and silky matchboxes of duck blood jelly, zip next door to order dessert at sister venue Pandan.