How can a simple pizza crust silence a table? At this pint-sized, warmly lit charmer, the charred, bubbled rim rises like a doughy tidal wave, ready to crash into a sea of deli-bedazzled red sauce. Bases are wafer-thin, crusts are billowing, and the awe is palpable (you have a 48-hour ferment, in part, to thank).

Prepare for the thrill with a round of negronis and generous antipasti: an orb of fresh mozzarella, draped capocollo and prosciutto, dollops of fig and apricot jam.

Then, let the blazing behemoth of a pizza oven do its work, giving a quick scorching to pies topped with prawns, zucchini cream and mint oil, or sausage and char-grilled capsicum, or kipfler potato and syrupy sweet onion.

End on tremendously airy tiramisu, and all feels right in the world.