Whether you’re sitting under the sculpture of a golden rice stalk or on a cushioned bench opposite the thrumming kitchen, you’ll hear the clatter of woks and smell the coconut and shallots in this busy restaurant.

Holy Basil’s Thai fusion is presented in colourful, balanced dishes that are modestly spiced and eat extremely well. A plant-based spin on yum khao tod, the rice ball salad, subs out pork crackling for coral mushrooms. Prawns are curry-battered, fried and tossed with excellent sticky tamarind dressing.

Curry pastes are all house-made and used to great effect in silky massaman mains: one comes with fall-apart duck Maryland, and a riotous vegan version is made with pineapple and snake beans.

Date and longan pudding is doused in lemongrass-spiked caramel, another illustration of the kitchen’s skill in pairing Euro technique with Thai flavours.