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A limited public transport timetable and formidable Uber fares from the city mean someone in your party is likely putting themselves behind the wheel after lunch at Chauncy. Owner-sommelier Tess Murray knows this and has trademarked quarter-glass pours to suit.

Your “driver’s dash” might see a zippy Alsace pinot blanc teamed with bagna cauda and crudites of Tokyo turnip and Easter egg radish.

And if Murray thinks this week’s duck dish – alive with beetroot and preserved cherry – goes better with grenache than syrah, she’ll switch the glasses on every table mid-service.

You could be forgiven for thinking you’re on a farm: there’s a roaring open fire, branches are hung like works of art, and the kitchen garden threatens to overwhelm the car park. But then the crisp linen, heavy silverware and gorgeously new-wave tarte tatin reimmerse you in this unique breed of country hospitality.