This is a room oozing confidence. High-powered diners ditch jackets and ties and push ever deeper into the 485-bottle wine list while waitstaff masterfully rattle off specials.

Almost three decades ago Caterina Borsato had the pluck to open this lunch-only basement of great produce and hospitality, and it has only gone from strength to strength, defying work-from-home trends to prove long lunches are still possible – and desirable.

Scallops are seared just-so, enhanced by bright pea purée and a tangle of caramelised onion. Gently spiced baby octopus can nearly be cut with a spoon, paired expertly with rich tomato sauce, pops of olive and soft polenta. Caprese salad is at once tart, creamy and herbaceous.

Your challenge? Loosen that belt, order a wodge of tiramisu and work out how to tell the boss why lunch stretched into the late afternoon.