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This offshoot of three-hatted Amaru recently switched gears, moving from a snack-driven menu to one that will sate bigger appetites.

Case in point: the gold skinned, brine-plumped spatchcock on bread sauce made from Amaru’s sourdough.Cut-with-a-spoon beef cheek is another example, arriving atop lush soubise. Snack diehards will still find satisfaction.

Perch at the bar or settle into the timber-panelled courtyard with a glass of pet nat and prepare for a petite procession: pancetta-crowned scallops with mussel chowder and desert lime, rock lobster on brioche with the zing of XO, ritzy chicken hotdogs, pickled ox tongue skewers.

The wine list is deep and enticing, piloted by cheerful staff who keep this handsome, copper-accented space ticking. No longer a pitstop on the way to somewhere else, Auterra 2.0 is a destination in its own right.