This long-running institution is a little grungier than some other Ethiopian eateries around town, but that’s part of its charm. Where else can you shoot pool, throw back scotch and also get a hearty feed?

Vegetarians have many options from which the obvious choice is beyaynetu, an array of comforting stews served atop plush injera. There’s a satisfying interplay between the earthy, savoury legumes of misir wat; the sweetness of carrot and green beans in atakilt wat; and the fermented tang of the bread.

Zilzil tibs is a small mountain of grilled beef strips with charred onion and green chillies, spicy enough to excite but not enough to overwhelm. Entrees and desserts aren’t part of the offer, but to compensate there’s staggeringly cheap booze, a playlist that mixes Ethio-jazz with Phil Collins, and that rarity – the all-day coffee.