It sure is nice to be able to enjoy the views at Middle Harbour Yacht Club without having to pay to be a member. St Siandra has a free-wheeling, accessible, Mediterranean air about it, and with former Nomad chef Sam McCallum in the kitchen, the food is all summer days and a jaunt through the Mediterranean and Middle East. That means puffy, blistered potato bread with light, creamy tahina, Spring Bay mussels on the half shell, and charcoal grilled Clarence River baby octopus. Spaghetti with Skull Island prawns needs a bit more lift and sea-sweetness, but get here on a sunny day for lunch, or a weekend brunch, and the holiday vibe is high. Even in winter, you can cruise in for cocktails followed by a fall- apart lamb shoulder to share. Sit back with a limoncello aperitif and feel like you’re living the dream.