From the white gallery walls hung with good contemporary art to the luscious long banquette, heavy with plumped scarlet cushions, Lolli Redini has an air of assurance and stability. It’s been the queen of the district for its 13 years and the confident professionalism of chef Simonn Hawke, front-of-house manager Leah Morphett and their team ensures this royal is a stayer. There’s sure technique in Hawke’s signature twice-baked Heidi gruyere souffle with hazelnuts and pear, and in a just-soupy, al dente risotto of pea, broad bean and asparagus (although in autumn this dish seemed somewhat against the season). Beef brisket is rich and fall-apart with creamy but still textured celeriac and heirloom carrots. Vanilla bean bavarois capped with honey jelly, quince and verjuice and praline ice-cream rolls a sparkling autumn into one dish, providing the ultimate lingering finale.

And ... Hawke’s General Store, run by Simonn’s sister Coco, is next door.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Relaxed sophistication.
Best bit Sit back and leave it to the professionals.
Worst bit Coveting that cushy banquette.