Simonn Hawke's twice-baked gruyere cheese souffle is high sophistication - as light as the breeze, and heavenly in its depth of flavour. There's the textural tease of roasted hazelnuts, the crunch of a spinach and pear salad, and a sublime richness both cut and accentuated by a crisp chardonnay dressing. But this local landmark is anything but a one-trick pony. The French and Italian inspirations of Hawke's cooking are seen everywhere on the menu, in the precision of French technique and the brio of Italian cucina - in rich pork belly on kumara and ginger puree or a fine confit of duck maryland. Desserts are a triumph, such as lemon verbena and sauternes jelly panna cotta. The cool professionalism of the kitchen is matched by the warm professionalism of the floor staff in a beautiful, evocative, yet cosy dining room. Here's great consistency of quality and style from a stayer on the very fine Orange fine-dining scene.