There's a culinary buzz about Fairfield and at the special-event end of the dining spectrum is La Tratt. Walk through the ferns and boulders at the RSL entrance (no, it isn't the Water Buffalo Club from the Flintstones) and be greeted by the attentive staff of this Silver Spoon cookbook-inspired fine diner. Satiny ravioli of pulled lamb floating in a pond of its own jus with asparagus, capers, parsley and peas is full of springtime goodness, but the real Grand Poobah is a Cape Grim tomahawk on the bone - a bronto-sized helping for two of buttery angus rib-eye served on the board on which it was cut, and best enjoyed with a Jenga stack of polenta chips and accompanying garlic puree. Unfortunately a chocolate, caramel and pine nut tart with preserved cherries, chestnut cream and spiced meringue fell on the weight of its own ambition. All of this in a chocolate-hued dining room with enough mirrored walls to keep even Derek Zoolander satisfied.