If you can tolerate the whole RSL signing-in palaver and the patterned carpets that go with the territory, just beyond the pokies a treat lies in store. The chocolate-toned dining room with its mirror-mounted sconces and flickering gas fires - even in summer! - has been designed with comfort and hearing in mind. A rabbit terrine is more like rillettes but, terminology aside, its rich shredded flesh is matched with a slab of seared foie gras, the tangy cornichons a good contrast. Firm scallops and pureed sweetcorn are topped with crisp frills of pancetta, granular sweetbreads the only let-down. Heaven lies in the duck and wild mushroom pie, its buttery pastry handsomely encasing a gutsy filling. Braised lamb shoulder, grilled cutlet, green olive tapenade, smoky eggplant and caponata is a busy dish, but it all works. Well-timed service allows sufficient pause before your cinnamon and sugar-doused Italian doughnuts with vanilla gelato and dulce de leche.