Share the cliff-top view with the pair of sea eagles who occasionally swoop past as you sip a cocktail on the terrace of this 85-year-old icon. This piece of paradise is best by day with its incomparable view of the Pacific Ocean; at night, the cool, cream-toned room can feel a little cold if not full. Staff are welcoming and the wine service exceptional. Spanner crab is delicately wreathed in cucumber with poached greens and paw paw dressing while North Atlantic scallops happily sit with melt-in-the-mouth foie gras mousse and artichoke. Mains are as pretty but fussy: Rangers Valley wagyu rump cap lands with goat’s curd, fig tapenade, pickled cucumber and marrow jus, and crisp barramundi with school prawns, padron peppers, black garlic and preserved lemon. More cohesive is a fig-themed dessert; fresh sorbet and compote with honeycomb, meringue and rosemary jelly.

And … There’s a separate bar and terrace menu, to take in the million-dollar view at moderate prices.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Northern beaches oasis of calm.
Best bit Position, position, position.
Worst bit Piped music.