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You Beauty, which features a dark wood fitout and the odd wall plastered with Australiana, could almost pass for another country-style pub. But step inside and staff are moving at a purposeful clip, and clientele are here for more than schooners and schnitzels.

Chef Matt Stone’s signature crocodile toast packed with sesame seeds is upscale, textural-driven snack food (with bite!), and hunky barbecued Ballina prawns come enlivened with saffron butter sauce. Grilled kangaroo loin skewers with macadamia satay will convert any doubters about how enjoyable the meat can be, and crisp Southern-fried chicken with mash, gravy and habanero dipping sauce is fabulously tender once you dig in.

Wine, like the food, is thoughtfully straight-up, focusing on affordable small-grower drops from Australia and abroad.

Finish with a plump, lush mandarin pudding, and you have a joint perfectly pitched for both discerning locals and interloping food nuts.