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Slowly, surely, the Porteno Group has made a strip of Surry Hills its own. While Wyno x Bodega has sadly shut-up shop, there’s still pasta-focused Bastardo, Humble Bakery and the fire-powered flagship, proudly in the same handsome space it has been since relocating from Redfern in 2016.

Needless to say (and in case the dry-ageing cabinet isn’t enough of a clue), steak is essential. Manning Valley sirloin, say, aged for 42 days, then grilled with the bone in for length of flavour, its richness tempered by chimichurri. Vegetables star too, with the crisp-fried Brussels sprouts still winning out, mint and vincotto freshening things up.

Country terrine, meanwhile, made with morcilla and free-range pork gets along great guns with Humble Bakery baguette. Chorizo is made in-house, the wine list is broad, distinct and packed with interest, and staff tread the floor with much assurance. Still blazing, after all this time.