This often-packed diner is built on the vibrancy of Lao and Vietnamese cuisine, its modern dining room featuring tropical-themed upholstery and deep-green scallop tiles. Big flavours are well handled, sometimes literally so, such as the hot Lao sausage, sliced and parcelled in charred cabbage leaves and Vietnamese mint, designed to be dipped in spicy, tomato-spiked jeow bong sauce.

The layers of flavour continue with the wrap sets, including roast pork belly slices folded in lettuce and a mountain of herbs, with crackling for crunch and peanut or hoisin sauce.

Meanwhile, prawn banh khot hold plenty of textural interest – creamy coconut against sharp fish sauce and the crunch of turmeric pancakes. Wine leans new wave, service is warm and dessert is a satisfyingly bitter riff on Vietnamese iced coffee, with caramel ganache, milky ice-cream and toasted rice. Aromatic, eclectic and a lot of fun.