Longshore

Out-of-the-box thinking meets a sure hand with seafood.

November 11, 2024

1 / 9Margra lamb rump with glazed belly, pumpkin miso and black garlic.Edwina Pickles

2 / 9The open-plan kitchen is front and centre.Edwina Pickles

3 / 9Whole John Dory on the bone with XO butter.Edwina Pickles

4 / 9Skull Island prawn “taco” with chilli sambal.Edwina Pickles

5 / 9Greenlip abalone pie with mushroom ketchup.Edwina Pickles

6 / 9Rockmelon panna cotta.Edwina Pickles

7 / 9Nab a table at the cosy restaurant.James Brickwood

8 / 9Steamed san whiting with XO butter and green garlic. James Brickwood

9 / 9Red rice sake-lees ice cream.James Brickwood

15.5/20

Contemporary$$$

Small things count at Longshore. A crudo of tiny sweet coral prawns with plum vinegar and rice crisps that together taste like DIY prawn crackers from a Chinese takeaway. A mini abalone shell, filled with savoury custard and slivers of abalone meat and given punch with wasabi leaf.

You could snack all night here (literally: there’s a 10-course snack menu), but those touches that former Hartsyard chef Jarrod Walsh brings to the openers extend right through. Staff know the menu back to front, a refreshing, white-led wine list has flexibility and fun built in, and larger plates hit as hard as the openers: see the saucy barbecued kingfish head with avruga and chives, or the coiled octopus tentacles splashed with ink and green sauce.

The room (once home to Automata) might want for atmosphere, but this is one of Sydney’s most exciting seafood restaurants hiding in plain sight – get in before word gets out.