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For 30 years this suburban icon has been balm for the soul. A place to be surrounded by Campari posters and a fleet-footed floor team. A room to watch pizzaiolos work a wood burning oven and turn out slices with a base that’s pliable but strong.

A margherita finished with fresh basil is devoid of those little pools of grease that plague lesser pizzas, while the Diavola is paved with salami of serious heat, olives and the occasional anchovy. Perfect.

Expect the specials menu to list a dozen new dishes each week, such as bitey pappardelle tangled with a braised wild-boar ragu of commanding depth, and a nicely acidic pear, cabbage and goat’s cheese salad.

Meanwhile, manager Simone Busi has created a beaut wine list with plenty of bargains and native Italian grapes, plus a fun line-up of negroni riffs and spritzes.