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Owner and chef Ben Nguyen has done things his own way for nearly three decades. From the kitschy interior filled with knick-knacks to the eclectic menu that spans a lengthy repertoire of Vietnamese favourites beyond pho, there’s no restaurant like Hai Au Lang Nuong in the country.

Locals are here for the grilled dishes, and the silver perch is a seriously good display of cooking – crisped skin with aromatic flesh that pulls away from the bone at a touch. Barbecued pork skewers, slightly sweet and kissed by charcoal, are served with rice paper, salad and noodles to wrap your own rolls.

And it’s not just about the grill: seafood hot pot is reminiscent of what you find in Vietnam with scallops, pipis, mussels, periwinkles and cockles arriving in a creamy, laksa-like broth. The impressive array of dessert guarantees a fruity finish to what feels like a night out in Ho Chi Minh City.