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Cash Only Diner

Suburban noodle shop meets urban cocktail bar.

The dining room.
1 / 5The dining room.Jennifer Soo
Vanilla and coconut panna cotta.
2 / 5Vanilla and coconut panna cotta. Jennifer Soo
Bun bo hue.
3 / 5Bun bo hue.Jennifer Soo
Glazed pork belly skewers.
4 / 5Glazed pork belly skewers.Jennifer Soo
Cha gio pork spring rolls.
5 / 5Cha gio pork spring rolls.Jennifer Soo

14.5/20

Vietnamese$

Pho gets the headlines, but is bun bo hue – traditionally built on beef and pork bones and all manner of tart and spicy flavours – even sexier? Marry pho. Kill minestrone. Go home with BBH and cover yourself in shrimp paste. Cash Only gets it, and plenty more.

Not only does this brick-lined diner rock a great version of the form, it has rare bottlings of Chartreuse, and bourbon-spiked iced coffee. Safe to say, there isn’t another restaurant like it.

Co-owner and drinks pro Chau Tran was inspired by her mother’s home-cooking for the menu, so there’s also crunchy pork spring rolls; pungent com hen, featuring rice topped with baby clams, pork rind, puffed rice paper and a picnic’s-worth of pickles; and betel leaf wrapped bundles of beef seasoned with anchovy sauce.

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And fret not, the name is a nod to storied hole-in-the-wall noodle shops rather than a no-cards policy. Tap away.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/nsw-good-food-guide/cash-only-diner-20240921-p5kcfh.html