Bar Totti’s

High-spirited hits to midnight and beyond.

November 11, 2024

6 / 7Pickled octopus with fennel. Steven Woodburn

7 / 7Baked tomino cheese. Steven Woodburn.

15/20

Italian$$

Disclaimer

There is an ongoing investigation by The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age and Good Food detailing allegations of sexual harassment, exploitation of female staff and drug use at Merivale venues. Merivale, the owner of this restaurant, has begun an internal investigation into the claims and says it is committed to “an inclusive, diverse and respectful workplace environment for our staff, as well as for our customers”. SafeWork NSW is also investigating the company.

Without Bar Totti’s and its neighbours lining the footpath with diners, the Great George Street Emptying that followed the arrival of the light rail and COVID could have been pretty bleak.

But instead of tumbleweed, you find crowds lining up for Totti’s puffy wood-fired bread, pasta and giant steaks to share. Obviously, you’re going to order that bread, but what else from the long list of antipasti Tomatoes so red they’re almost fluorescent are a no-brainer, but we also suggest a combination of ’nduja, ricotta and mortadella, perhaps layered across your bread all at once.

Vongole bucatini is given an umami lift from seaweed and shiitakes, wagyu schnitzel is nicely sharpened with parmesan and capers, and grilled prawns with chilli and tarragon feel tailor-made for rosé.

Outside or in, early or late, these seats are hot property. Is the CBD back? Bar Totti’s says yes.