Stefano's
17/20
Italian$$$
Respected, revered, even deified, Stefano's is one restaurant that deserves the hyperbole. Its reputation as a crucible of edgily rustic Italian food with a produce-driven sensibility is as relevant today as when Stefano de Pieri established his restaurant in the dim and moody cellar of the Grand Hotel 20 years ago. Make the effort - booking ahead, naturally - and be rewarded with honest, spot-on Italian cooking with the occasional modern flourish. Campari and salt-cured salmon holding air-light goat's milk 'panna cotta' dusted with a powder of beetroot and lime is as tricky as Stefano's gets. Otherwise, there's the perfect sweetness of roasted yabby tails with dehydrated corn polenta and a vibrant sauce of stinging nettles; or the simplicity of tagliolini with a soulfully earthy mushroom sauce, aged grana and black truffles grated at the table. The lengthy wine list is a great opportunity to explore some lesser-known Italian byways, and the feeling of abundance extends to desserts, with a concoction of figs, almonds and honey icecream a grand finale.
Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.
Sign upFrom our partners
Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/stefanos-20120901-2ac9l.html