This luncheon-only basement Italian restaurant is an institution in Melbourne for both its Italian fare and the hospitality of its namesake restaurateur. Regulars are greeted by name and stick to favourite orders despite a long list of daily specials. House-made pastas and risottos are authentic. Carpaccio of fillet of Angus beef comes with house-made mayonnaise, imported olive oil, shaves of grana padano and snapping fresh celery to add crunch. Slowly oven-braised meats change daily and may be goat, veal or lamb - all will leave you mopping up cooking juices and all come with not-to-be-missed semolina dumplings. Twice-cooked, on-the-bone duck leg is served with a boned duck leg. Lunch here can be short or spent lingering over great wines of the world from an excellent list of domestic and imported wine served by knowledgeable staff. Italian cheeses are well selected and treated seriously. Caterina Borsato flits from table to table adding her unique personal touch.