Twenty-plus years in the business, a Good Food Guide stalwart and a Cheap Eats hall-of-famer. What else is there to say about Bombay by Night? Well, there's this: it's still damn good and arguably the best Indian food you'll find in Melbourne. It's a combination of the relaxed, Euro-inspired room with a low-key, jazz-inflected soundtrack, fabulously executed northern Indian classics - say, gobi pakoras (fried cauliflower in a lentil batter) or a coconut-based prawn curry with a lightness of touch seldom found elsewhere - with rotating specials that might include ultra-tender lamb cutlets marinated in hung yoghurt, served with a vindaloo-spiced mayonnaise. Mop it all up with the light and puffy naan bread and you'll be on the path to contentment - until you have the kulfi (mango or praline) for dessert, at which point you might think you've reached nirvana.