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What started as a pop-up serving home-style Greek cuisine is now a fully fledged 60-seat diner, with exposed brick walls and pressed metal ceilings carefully preserved in a century-old site.

Opposite Masses Bagels on Smith Street, Oscar Tan (ex-chef de partie at Gimlet) dishes up affordably priced Greek dishes from a blackboard menu that changes weekly, save for a couple of staples: crusty white bread (“a mix between baguette, focaccia and ciabatta,” says Tan), and taramasalata made with the leftovers of the house loaf.

Meaty mains could include a chicken steak, the thigh seared hard to create a crispy skin, or a slow-cooked lamb dish, with sides such as traditional Greek salad.

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