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There may not be any windows, but tabletop candles, warm light from an open kitchen and spotlit shelves of pickles set the tone at this trattoria, where a martini feels like the first order of business. Not bad for a place attached to a retail arcade.

Modern Italian comfort is the order, meaning lots of things to swipe bread through, a few pastas and meatier mains. Spatchcock, sticky with agrodolce, is pan-fried in garlic oil for skin with extra crunch and flavour; polenta bolstered with fennel stock is the bed for grilled octopus and pickled carrots drizzled with ’nduja oil.

A glass of gamay from the diverse wine list will travel easily between that octopus and a bowl of pappardelle with long-braised beef-shin ragu, and yes, you will want more sourdough with roasted garlic butter at this juncture. Come dessert, a syrup soaked orange cake may have you asking to see the one-page amaro and brandy list, too.