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It may have made a name for itself with a saucy meatball sub, but this ain’t no sandwich shop. Rocco’s is a modern trattoria with an old soul – buzzy even on a school night – fitted out with vinyl booths and finished in terrazzo and wood.

Focaccia comes thick-crusted, seasoned with flaky salt and rosemary, and dripping with caramelised honey. Springy casarecce is teamed with a white ragu liberal with oxtail, the meat yielding after an overnight braise. Sugarloaf cabbage is an unexpected hit of umami, its charred leaves swimming in dashi butter and XO made from anchovies and charcuterie off cuts.

Just here for a pitstop? The mainstay meatball sandwich is hard to pass up, generous with sugo, salsa verde and white sauce. Top it all off with a bitter Alpine amaro and a cup of fluffy yuzu soft serve.